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UIAGM / IFMGA Internationally Certified
Mountain Guides
AMGA Certified Alpine Guide, Rock Guide & Ski Mountaineering Guides
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DENALI WEST BUTRESS EXPEDITION
Denali National Park, Alaska
High Camp on Denali 17,200'
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| Itinerary Below
| Schedule & Rates
| Valdez Ice Climbing
Expedition Overview
We will be guiding Denali through Mountain Trip, an authorized concessionaire that has been guiding climbers up Denali for over 28 years, with an excellent safety and success record.
Kahlitna Glacier, Denali
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In 2004 they were the only company to reach the summit of Denali on every scheduled expedition! For climbers wishing to do a non technical, but physically challenging climb of Denali we offer the classical West Buttress, with a duration of between 16 and 21 days.
Descending Muldrow Glacier
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The West Buttress of Denali was pioneered by Bradford Washburn in 1950. Due to its relative ease of access in this modern age of Air Taxis, it has become the route of choice for most climbers. The route begins at 7,200 feet on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. It follows the Kahiltna north before ascending up onto the West Buttress proper. Though technically not very difficult, climbers will use a variety of mountaineering techniques to safely make their way around crevasses and up moderately steep terrain.
Camp 5 on the West Rib
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The route culminates on Summit Day with an incredible knife edged ridge to the highest point in North America.
Heavy packs and the thin air of altitude at such high latitudes can make the West Buttress a very physically challenging climb. Extreme winds, heavy snowfall and arctic cold all conspire to make any undertaking on Denali very serious. Experience counts on Denali and our guides have been on more expeditions on the mountain than most. If you are considering joining a guided party, ask your outfitter how many Denali trips your guide has been on. It makes a difference.
| Click for Denali Equipment List
Denali West Butress Expedition Itinerary
Denali is a big mountain with big mountain weather, geography and acclimatization issues. The following itinerary represents a very basic outline of what could happen on a given day during the course of a Denali expedition. Many factors can, and probably will, contribute to cause the following schedule to change. Ultimately, where to camp and when to travel is the decision of the guides.
| DAY 1: |
IN ANCHORAGE. Team Meeting at 10 A.M. for an Expedition Orientation
and Equipment check. You must be at this meeting! Be sure to arrive in
Anchorage early enough to make the meeting; this may require arriving
a day early. |
| DAY 2: |
TRAVEL TO TALKEETNA AND FLY TO THE GLACIER. We will drive several hours
to Talkeetna, where everyone will register with the National Park Service.
Weather permitting, we will fly into the Kahiltna Glacier with the Air
Taxi. There will be an on-glacier Expedition Orientation that will cover
the following topics: Glacier Travel, Crevasse Rescue, Sled rigging,
Rope Management and Camp Site Procedures. Establish Base Camp at 7,000
feet. |
| DAY 3: |
CARRY SUPPLIES TO CAMP 1 (7,770 FEET), near the junction with the NE
Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. This is a moderate carry of about 9 miles
round-trip and is a good shake-down for the upcoming days. Depending
on the team and weather we may or may not return to Base Camp. Throughout
the Expedition we will follow the climb high, sleep low technique, for
better acclimatization, however the altitude difference between Base
Camp and Camp 1 is minimal enough to permit us to occasionally single-carry
this stretch. On the late May and June Expeditions, we may be doing our
climbing at night to avoid the excessive heat and soft snow conditions
on the Lower Glacier. |
| DAY 4: |
MOVE REMAINING SUPPLIES AND ESTABLISH CAMP 1. (If the team double carries
to Camp 1.) |
| DAY 5: |
HAUL LOADS UP TO KAHILTNA PASS. Several options exist for camp sites
between 9,500 & 11,000 feet, depending upon weather, snow conditions
and team strength. This is a moderately difficult carry; 7-9 miles round-trip,
with 2-3,000 feet of elevation gain and a return to Camp 1 for the night. |
| DAY 6: |
MOVE EVERYTHING TO CAMP 2 NEAR KAHILTNA PASS. Camp is often in the
beautiful 11,200' basin at the bas of Motorcycle Hill. |
| DAY 7: |
BACK-CARRY DAY. This is an active rest day during which we drop back
down and pick up the cache. |
| DAY 8: |
HAUL LOADS AROUND WINDY CORNER (13,300 FEET). Steep snow climbing up
Motorcycle Hill rewards you with spectacular views. Distance is about
4 miles round trip. Sleds are getting lighter air is getting thinner. |
| DAY 9: |
MOVE CAMP TO 14,300 FEET. This is usually a long, hard day. Weather
and team strength will determine the placement of Camp 3 however the
goal is the well equipped 14,200' camp. Fun climbing with crampons and
ice axe gets you around Windy Corner where the upper Mountain comes into
view. |
| DAY 10: |
BACK-CARRY DAY. The team will descend from 14,300' to the Windy Corner
cache and bring everything up to 14,300 feet. |
| DAY 11: |
CLIMB UP THE HEADWALL TO THE RIDGE. Cache supplies and return to 14,300
feet. Climbing up the Headwall (Fixed Line is from 15,500 to 16,100 feet)
with a heavy pack is one of the most strenuous days of the trip, because
of the steep terrain, heavy pack and thinning air. |
| DAY 12: |
REST DAY. It is often prudent to take a rest/acclimatization day prior
to moving up to High Camp. |
| DAY 13: |
MOVE TO HIGH CAMP. Weather and team strength will again determine this
decision. While there is a camp site at 16,100', it is very exposed,
so we usually push for the 17,200 ' site which is more secure and the
better choice for High Camp. |
| DAY 14: |
REST DAY. Moving to 17,200' and getting High Camp established can be
a huge day, so we usually take a Rest Day before attempting the summit. |
| DAY 15-20: |
Denali Summit Ridge
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SUMMIT DAY: If the weather is favorable, we'll push for the summit.
However if the weather is not good it is important to be patient! We
will only try for the Summit when the weather is good, meaning mostly
clear and calm. The round trip climb will take eight to twelve hours
or more. Usually you will depart camp early (7-9 a.m.), climb up to Denali
Pass (18,000') and follow the route past Arch Deacon's Tower and the
Football Field to the slopes leading to the Summit Ridge. On this spectacular
ridge you can often see down into the Ruth Glacier and view peaks such
as the Moose's Tooth, Mt Huntington and more. If the weather is still
good, you will always remember this view!!!
***Summit Day is serious. The weather needs to be good and everyone
attempting the summit needs to have demonstrated that they can safely
give it a shot. This is by far the most grueling day of the expedition.
The guides have the ultimate decision as to when the team will make
a summit bid. The guides also have the discretion to decide that a
team member has not shown that he or she is capable to safely negotiate
the Upper Mountain. Such occurrences are rare; but remember- safety
is our primary concern. |
| DAY 20-21: |
DESCENT: The descent from High Camp will take from one to two days,
depending on the team's strength and motivation to get home. Weather
dictates when we will fly out to Talkeetna for food and showers. Not
much beats a steak and salad at the West Rib Tavern after working hard
on Denali! |
This itinerary is intended to be a guideline only, weather days and rest days are always a possibility while on a climbing trip.
COST INCLUDES
Professional Mountain Guides, land transportation between Anchorage and Talkeetna, round-trip flight between base camp and Talkeetna, all expedition food, all community gear (sleds, tents, stoves, cooking gear, medical kit, radio, etc.), and Denali permit fee.
YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR
Flights to Anchorage, meals in town, hotels in town, personal equipment, passport, personal items and services (laundry, drinks, tips, etc.)
Twisted Sister, WI V
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ICE CLIMBING
Valdez, Alaska
We offer guided ice climbs and ice climbing seminars in Valdez, Alaska. A mecca for ice climbing, Valdez offers a paradise for multipitch climbing on water ice. Valdez has often been described as the best Ice Climbing place in America, with hundreds of ice climbs near by. Quantity, quality and accessibility are unparallel.
Prices: $300 per day. Jan, Feb, Mar 2007
| Contact Us for more information
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