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Group meets in La Paz, Bolivia's capital city, the world's highest capital at above 10,000 ft, starting our acclimatization program as soon as you step out of the plane. Gear check and afternoon briefing at the hotel. Because acclimatization is crucial to our success, we highly recommend that our clients arrive 2 to 3 days earlier in La Paz prior to the start of the expedition. Attractive day treks and tours can be arranged from La Paz.
Acclimatization day in La Paz. The main purpose of our second day is to spend another night above 10,000'. This is a great occasion to visit La Paz and its many colonial sites.
Drive southeast towards Illimani (21,201'). The highest peak in the Cordillera Real, it is a massive mountain with three spectacular summits above 20,000'. At the end of this rugged road we meet the llamas and their llama handler who will take our gear to our Base Camp at 15,000'.
Carry a load to 18,000', our High Camp, and return to Base Camp.
Move to High Camp (18,000'). From this camp we have great views of the cirque of Illimani and across Lake Titicaca.
Summit Day!! Weather permitting. Early start to tackle Illimani's steep Southwest Buttress, interesting and careful glacier travel negotiating impressive crevasses. Before reaching the summit ridge we climb a beautiful 40-45 degree face. The gentle summit ridge offers spectacular views of the Andes.
Descent to Base Camp and down to La Paz. Dinner and rest.
Drive north towards our next objective, Ancohuma, (21,095'). It is an impressive and challenging mountain. With the help of llamas we reach our Base Camp at 15,400' by a beautiful lake.
Move to Camp I at 17,200'.
Move to Camp II at 18,900'. Beautiful glacier travel and a pass through a col takes us to the north side of the mountain where we establish camp.
Summit day, weather permitting. On summit day we climb a few pitches of 50-55 degree ice and mixed climbing, giving us access to the crest of the 1500 foot knife-edged North Ridge, a spectacular and exposed ridge that takes us to the summit. Ancohuma and Illampu have some of the finest climbing in Bolivia, and the Andes, offering quality glacier, snow, ice and mixed climbing.
Descent to Base Camp.
Hike to the base of Illampu (20,873'), our final objective of the trip. Illampu offers great ice and snow climbing on its Southwest Face up to 50-55 degrees. Move to high camp and summit next day (weather permitting).
Descent to La Paz. Next day fly back home or continue traveling in South America.