Aconcagua Expedition Mountain Guides

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ACONCAGUA POLISH GLACIER EXPEDITION

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| Itinerary Below
| Schedule & Rates

Aconcagua Polish Glacier

Route Description

We will continue to approach the Polish Glacier via the Guanacos Valley and traverse the mountain. If you are signing up for the Polish Glacier Route you need to have previous high altitude experience, and be very familiar with the use of ice axe, crampons, and belaying techniques. We are specialized in the Polish Glacier Route, having successfully guided it many times.

Guanacos Valley scree field

The line we choose will depend on conditions. If a lot of penitentes (snow pinnacles formed by direct sunlight) are encountered in the lower section of the glacier, we will start by climbing through the scree and rock on the right hand side.

Acon. Summit Ridge

The steeper Polish Glacier Direct Route has been the choice route in recent years. Although steeper, it is safer and easier due to fewer icy and exposed traverses than on the old Polish Route. On this spectacular, steep snow and ice climb we will use several running belays.

Moving to High Camp 19,200'

In steeper icy sections we will climb pitches instead of using running belays, belaying and regrouping at every anchor. A long day of climbing will take us to the Summit Ridge at 22,000' after the last steep pitch; a 55-60 degree narrow gully with the entire Glacier below at our feet. The final ridge is very long and gentle. After summiting, we descend quickly down the Normal Route to Independencia (20,790') where we descend to our High Camp at 19,200' to rest and spend the night. The next day we descend the Normal Route.

| Guanacos Valley & Traverse | Normal Route w/ Porters
| Ameghino Valley & Guanacos Traverse

Polish Glacier Route Itinerary

For a more detailed trip overview and itinerary, click here.

DAY 1:	Group meets in Mendoza, Argentina. Equipment check and afternoon briefing at the hotel. For dinner we will have a chance to taste fine Argentinean cuisine and wine.
DAY 2:	Drive West from Mendoza to Penitentes ski area at 8,500 . Our drive winds along the Rio Mendoza deep into the heart of the rugged Andes mountains where we begin our acclimatization in Penitentes. An afternoon hike is recommended, though optional.
DAY 3-4-5:	Approach to Plaza Guanacos Base Camp. Mules carry our gear. This approximately 35 mile approach is essential to our acclimatization. Our first two days we follow the same route as Aventuras Patagonicas old Traverse and Polish Glacier Expeditions. The third day begins our new approach. We continue up the Vacas Valleyinstead of ascending the Relinchos Valley. The chances of seeing other expeditions on this new exciting route is remote. The chance of seeing numerous wildlife is much moreprobable. Spectacular glaciers contrasting with a desert backdrop make this approach both surreal and unforgettable. We have an excellent chance of seeing herds of guanacos. When Rodrigo did an exploratory trip to the region he encountered several hundred, counting 80 in one sighting alone! These magnificent mammals are well camouflaged, extremely elusive and a rare sight in the Aconcagua region.
DAY 6:	Plaza Guanaco Base Camp at 13,000 . Rest and acclimatization day at Base Camp. We want everyone to have the best possible chance to make the summit. The most effective way to do this is to take the time to acclimatize to the low oxygen environment. We will incorporate rest days into our schedule and climb in traditional expedition style. We will be carrying loads up to the next camp and returning to sleep below at the previous camp. The next day we will move to the higher camp environment.
DAY 7:	Carry a load to Camp I at approximately 15,200 . The route goes up the narrow valley between the North side of Cerro Ameghino and Cerro San Francisco. Here we will be able to see Nieve Penitentes, unique snow and ice formations created by the direct sun. Return to Base Camp.
DAY 8:	Leave Base Camp. Move to Camp I.
DAY 9:	Carry a load to Camp II at 16,500 . Fantastic view of the Polish Glacier. We ascend scree slopes to a broad ridge crest where we will establish Camp II.
DAY 10:	Move to Camp II.
DAY 11:	Carry a load to Camp III, below the Polish Glacier at 17,800 .
DAY 12:	Move to Camp III. depending on how group is doing.
DAY 13:	Carry a load to High Camp, at 19,200 . We will establish this camp at the base of the Polish Glacier.
DAY 14:	Move to High Camp.
DAY 15-17:	Summit! Weather permitting. We allow several days for our Summit Day in case of poor weather.
DAY 18:	Descend the Normal Route to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp. This will be quite exciting since we will be descending a different side of the mountain.
DAY 19:	Hike out the Horcones Valley, with its impressive views of Aconcagua s South Face. Spend the night in Penitentes.
DAY 20:	Drive to Mendoza. Enjoy delicious team banquet! Next day fly home or continue traveling in South America.

Note: This itinerary is intended to be a guideline only, weather days and rest days are always a possibility while on a climbing expedition.

COST INCLUDES
Professional Mountain Guides, 2 nights hotel accommodation in Mendoza at the Mendoza Park Hyatt Hotel with breakfast buffet (1 night at the beginning of the expedition and 1 night at the end of the expedition), 2 nights hotel accommodation, breakfasts and dinners in Penitentes, all land transportation, mules, all expedition food, all community gear such as; tents, stoves, state of the art Base Camp, cooking gear, medical kits, satellite phones, radios, gamow bag, pulse-oximeters, etc.

YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR
Round-trip flights to and from Mendoza, Argentina, Aconcagua climbing permit fee (approx $250, which you will pay in Mendoza, accompanied by your guide), meals in Mendoza, personal equipment, passport, personal items and services (laundry, snacks, drinks, tips, etc.), expenses incurred in the case of a rescue or early departure from the expedition, and SAT phone charges.

Aconcagua Expedition Mountain Guides

SUGGESTED READING

POLISH GLACIER

ACONCAGUA POLISH GLACIER EXPEDITION

Aconcagua Polish Glacier Route Description

Polish Glacier Route Itinerary

Aconcagua Polish Glacier

Route Description